Hug the coast from Vieste in the north-east to Brindisi in the south, before turning inland to take in the città bianche.
Since Puglia is basically the shape of an upturned hockey stick, finding a way to see all this is an uncomplicated affair. There are several hundred miles of Adriatic coastline to the east, a chunk of Ionian Sea to the south, and a brace of large, wildlife-rich lakes in the north (Varano and Lesina), which are separated from the sea by low hills and sand dunes. The uplands are in the Gargano promontory in the north-east and the Alta Murgia national park in the west, while the rest of the region is flatter, often pockmarked with small hills topped with a settlement of some sort. Unspoilt Italy: fall head over heel for Puglia's Salento region Oh, and Europe’s largest colony of pink flamingos. What they’re missing as they charge pell-mell for Lecce, Gallipoli et al is a profusion of medieval hilltop towns, olive groves, a coastline peppered with interesting towns, more olive groves, restaurant menus stuffed with local speciality dishes, two national parks, vineyards, yet more olive groves, and enough castelli, cattedrali and palazzi to keep even the most demanding of history buffs content. Nowadays, tourists treat a large part of the region in much the same way – barely touching the ground at Brindisi or Bari before speeding south to newly trendy Salento, Puglia’s far southern tip (which we’ve covered in a separate guide). For centuries rampaging armies used this heel of Italy as a convenient motorway en route to richer pickings further afield.
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